Light:
Insufficient light over a long period manifests itself in spindly stems, yellow green foliage color, and leaf drop. Eventually, all growth stops and the plant dies.

Plants in the home seldom get an overdose of light. If, however, they’ve been accustomed to filtered light and you move them into a sunny window, leafburn or paling of foliage may soon become noticeable.

Different plants require varying amounts of light. In general, foliage plants can survive with much less light than those that produce bloom. If you choose the right plant for the light you can offer, you’ll have few light troubles.

Water:
If a plant receives too little water, it wilts. However, this seldom causes serious damage unless it occurs frequently; then, it stunts growth and causes flower drop.

Too much water is a more common problem. The first symptom is usually dropping of lower leaves. New leaves may continue to appear on top, but an overwatered plant gets leggy and bare of foliage at the base.

If you suspect that a plant has had too much water, tap it out of its pot and look at the roots. Root tips should be white. If they are brown, remove soil and repot in loose, spongy soil. Water less frequently.

Humidity:
Few house plants suffer from too much humidity. Average homes have humidity readings of 30 percent and less in the coldest months, insufficient for many plants.

Raise humidity with a cool vapor humidifier or by setting pots in a waterproof tray, on a layer of pebbles, with the water level kept below the top of the pebbles. Signs of too little humidity are browning of leaf tips and margins, and, with flowering plants, bud drop and failure to produce bloom.

Temperature:
Most house plants tolerate average home temperatures ranging from 60 to 75.

Feeding:
Most plants go into a semidormant or reduced growth period during the winter months. (A few are dormant at other times.) They should not be fed during those periods.

Insects and diseases: Plants that are grown indoors are seldom attacked by either insects or diseases if you buy them from a reputable florist or greenhouse grower. The only disease, as distinct from infestation by insects, that occurs often enough to consider here is caused by soil-borne, rot-producing organisms. In young plants, it is known as ‘damping off.’ In older plants, it is called ‘stem rot.’ To make sure that the potting soil you prepare is not infected, bake the moist soil mixture at 250 for 1¹/₂ hours in a closed metal container. As there is no effective remedy, plants having this disease should be destroyed promptly.

What To Do About Insects
Those insects that attack house plants can be effectively controlled with the same chemicals that are used to eliminate similar garden pests if the manufacturer’s precautions are strictly observed.

To prevent pests from getting a start, clean plants often by syringing in the sink or by cleaning foliage with a soft, damp cloth. Use lukewarm water; support each leaf with one hand as you wipe the top with the other.

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Most important is the quality of the potting soil in which your plant will grow. With few exceptions, house plants thrive in a potting soil mixture composed of gravel, peat, and soil in equal proportions.

Exceptions to this are: cactus and succulents of most kinds, which grow best in a mixture of half soil and half coarse sand; ferns, which prefer a mixture of half soil and half leaf mold or sphagnum moss; and a few house plants, such as camellias, which need an acid soil and acid fertilizer. These are available at garden shops everywhere.

You can make up your own potting soil mixture, or you can buy it commercially prepared. But whatever kind of mixture that you use, be sure it is moist, not dry or wet, when you’re ready to use it. Tender roots ‘settle in’ best and suffer the least damage in moist soil. It’s handy to keep some soil that’s properly damp in a plastic bag.

Don’t forget to put a layer of coarse material for drainage in the bottom of the pot before you begin to fill with potting soil. Broken chunks of clay pots or small rocks are good for this purpose. Omit this step if you use a self-watering pot.

Consider looks, too, when you pot a plant. Your eye will tell you when a pot is of the correct size, in proportion to the plant. Clay pots come in sizes up to 14 inches. The standard size has a depth equal to top diameter; the sizes called ‘bulb’ and ‘azalea’ pans are not as deep as they are wide.

If the plant is young and of a type that can be expected to grow rapidly, allow for this future growth in selecting the size of the pot. If you choose one too small, repotting will soon be necessary.

If you use a pot in which plants have previously grown, make certain that it is thoroughly clean before reusing it.

A plant needs repotting when its roots get matted around the outside of the soil ball in which it is growing. Fast-growing plants should be checked every three or four months. Slow-growing plants probably will not need repotting more than once a year.

Ordinarily, it is best to shift a plant to a pot no more than an inch or two larger than its former pot. If the pot is too large in relation to the plant, the soil will dry out very slowly and it will be difficult for you to control the moisture. Topsoil may be dry while central soil is still wet.

As a further aid to good watering practices, most beginners should use clay pots rather than plastic ones, since plastic pots permit no respiration through sides, and it is easy to misjudge and overwater when relying on topsoil as the indicator. Plant growers and shippers often use plastic pots because of their light weight and low breakage rate. But these factors are no longer relevant when you grow plants in your home.

Normally, the roots of a plant need not be disturbed at all when you set it into a larger pot. Simply add fresh potting soil at the bottom, the sides, and the top. But if the original soil ball has become packed down, has had poor drainage, or has had too many soluble salts (from hard water), then all of the soil should be removed and replaced. Do this gently, after having watered thoroughly on the clay preceding repotting so as to damage roots as little as possible. Spread the roots as you sift the fresh potting soil around them.

Beginners are tense about damaging plants in the course of repotting, but it is really a simple operation to perform without injuring a plant. Always water on the day before you repot so that all of the soil ball will be uniformly moistened.

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Light needs of plants have received careful study by scientists in recent years. The amateur indoor gardener now has at his command the results of their research.

The chart at the bottom of the page and the photographs of typical home situations at right will help you to determine how much light plants in your home are actually receiving when measured in footcandles.

Scientists use the unit, ‘footcandle,’ to denote quantity of illumination. Technically, one footcandle is equal to the amount of illumination cast on an object by one candle at a distance of one foot. Light meters used for photographic purposes measure light on the object to be photographed, rather than the strength of the light itself. But, with a chart that some manufacturers can supply, these photographic light meter readings can be converted to the footcandle units plant experts refer to. Or, much handier, there is now on the market a pocket-sized meter made especially for the purpose of measuring the amount of light available to plants. It has a range of from 0 to 5000 footcandles.

What happens when a plant gets too little light? Nothing, at first. Plants can survive for long periods on reserve food. Ultimately, however, new growth becomes spindly, new leaves smaller, and lower leaves die.

It may take only a few weeks, or as long as a year for a plant to show symptoms of light starvation. The cure is not a massive dose of light, this could kill a plant, but a return to adequate light conditions.

Nor is it wise to set foliage plants next to unshaded windows that face directly into the sun except during the coldest winter months. Even then, with the reflected light from snow, the total could be excessive. Very few foliage plants can tolerate direct sunlight, especially when magnified by clear glass. Shifted to such a spot from a dim corner, they will sunburn.

There are several ways you can give your plants more light safely: by moving them a little closer to windows, by moving them to a brighter room, or by leaving draperies and blinds open during the daylight hours. The most convenient way is to supplement the natural light available with artificial light.

There are several ways to supply proper light. You can use incandescent lamps, fluorescent tubes, or special growth lamps to supplement sunlight. Ceiling spotlights can be a successful light source, too, and they are decorative as well as functional in supplying general lighting for one area of a room.

There is still another trick employed by clever indoor gardeners who wish to use a plant for a major decorative role but find that the best location has insufficient light. This is to buy two specimens of the particular plant you want, and shift the two periodically from the spot where the plant performs best decoratively to the location where the light is ideal. This shifting should take place on a weekly basis (or more often) in order to keep both plants healthy over as long a period as possible.

If the plant in question is a large one, a tubbed palm, totem-style monstera, or other plant that is four or five feet tall, it is a heavy job to shift the plant from one place to an other. This problem can often be solved by displaying the plants on low platforms equipped with casters, thus, reducing the physical exertion to a minimum when the time arrives to shift the two. Such platforms on wheels are available commercially, but they are simple enough to build so that almost any handyman can easily put one together, at a total cost of only a few dollars.

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For example, your home in winter may be almost as arid as a desert. If so, your plants will need more water than during warm, humid summer weather. Likewise, plants in small pots probably will need watering more often than those in large pots, the smaller pot dries out faster. But, while a plant in bloom needs more water than it does at other times, in general, variations in water needs from plant to plant aren’t great. Except for cactus and succulents, most plants grow best in soil that is constantly moist _not wet.

A good rule: water whenever the topsoil feels dry, whether daily or weekly. Also, water thoroughly, so to supply enough water to moisten the soil all the way to the bottom.

If you water from the top, be sure to have broken potsherds, pebbles, or other loose material at the bottom of the pot for good drainage. This is not necessary for bottom watering. Instead, insert a wick (preferably one of fiber glass) to absorb water from a dish below, keeping soil moist.

Whether you water from top or bottom, it’s good practice to give plants an occasional ‘dunking’. Place the pot in a pail, or in your kitchen sink filled so that the pot will be half submerged. When the surface of the soil is moist, set the plant aside and allow the surplus water to drain away. Then return the plant to its usual location. (In the process, it’s a good idea to syringe the foliage and remove dust at the same time.)

However, don’t leave the pot standing in water more than an hour. Too much water over a long period prevents oxygen from get ting to the roots, roots must have oxygen.

For most plants (succulents and cactus are exceptions) it’s almost impossible to over- water if you’ve provided adequate drainage.

A common mistake made by amateur indoor gardeners is overfertilizing. A little plant food goes a long way, too much can burn the roots and actually kill a plant. This is especially important to watch, for the various brands of fertilizers on the market differ in strength. So it pays to follow package directions exactly.

How much food you give your plants is also influenced by the seasons of the year. While older plants benefit from a light feeding every few weeks, during winter it is best to stop feeding them except those that bloom during this period. Most of the foliage plants grown as house plants go into a reduced growth period during colder months, and giving them fertilizer disturbs their natural growth habits. You should also guard against fertilizing new plants obtained from your florist. They need no fertilizer for the first six weeks after you buy them _in fact, feeding these plants may be harmful to them.

Commercial fertilizers always indicate on the package the proportions of nutrients they contain. Those usually present are nitrogen, phosphoric acid, and potash, generally represented on packages and in the order stated by the ratio figures.

In your eagerness to help your plants along, you may overdo your feeding. It’s not wise to assume that any sickly looking plant will benefit from a dose of plant food. The plant is more apt to be ailing because of too little light, too much or too little water, too dry an atmosphere, or poor quality of potting soil.

If your plant is suffering from starvation, nitrogen is most likely to be what it lacks. Symptoms are a yellow color in new leaves, and lack of vigor in new growth.

While symptoms of injury from gas fumes, too much water and too little light are similar, when one of these is the culprit you usually find lower leaves turning yellow, while those higher up stay green.

Plant foods come in powdered, granulated, tablet, and liquid form. Experiment with all kinds, following suggestions below, to see which plant food you prefer.

When using dry food, be careful not to get it on the plant, and to water into the soil at once. Tablets may be inserted in the soil at the outer edge of pot. These are absorbed in the course of several waterings.

The main thing to remember about fertilizers is “Don’t kill a plant with kindness!”

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Widespread interest in bonsai followed American occupation of Japan at the close of World War II. Today, it is possible to buy mature specimens in many parts of the country, and more and more enthusiasts are learning the basics of training and care.

To the uninitiated, it should at once be made clear that bonsai are not primarily house plants, although they can be brought indoors several times a week to be seen at close range and enjoyed for perfection of form or for colorful seasonal bloom.

Well-grown bonsai must spend a major portion of their lives outdoors, or in a cool greenhouse. They need the kind of light and humidity (some require cold, dormant periods) that cannot be duplicated in average homes. In climates with cold winters and hot summers, they need protection from extremes.

To create an artistic bonsai, the Japanese start with a young plant that, preferably, is already somewhat stunted or misshapen. Then, they prune both roots and branches regularly over many years. At the same time, they wrap the trunk and branches in wire to train them into pleasing lines. The wires remain in place for several years.

Choosing the right plant is a vital factor in success with bonsai. It should, first, be suited to the climate of the area in which you live. In warm climates, deciduous varieties needing prolonged dormancy produced by cold weather are not feasible. In northern regions, tender varieties must be kept in a cool green house or in a cold frame dug to a depth well below the frost line during all subfreezing weather.

Next, since a height of about three feet is considered the maximum for bonsai, you should select varieties that do not normally grow to immense heights. Dwarf and com pact varieties are generally superior.

Since the final form sought is a miniature of nature that conveys the illusion of great age _never a grotesque distortion of nature, only fine-foliage types, with leaves that are in proportion to the plant, are suitable.

Once you’ve chosen the right plant, you must decide on a final form toward which you will train it. There are, as you see from examples pictured here, several classic categories: upright; slanting; and cascade. (The Japanese make further distinctions within some of these forms, which you may wish to pursue if you become an expert.)

Importance of Daily Care
Fascinating as bonsai are, it must be recognized that they are demanding plants and not for you if you’re often away from home. Since they grow in minimal amounts of soil, they must be checked daily and watered as often as soil dries, which may also be daily. Nor do the tasks of training and pruning of bonsai end. They must be done as long as the plant continues to live.

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It is the offspring that carry on in successive years with bloom. So don’t, generously, give away all your offsets, or you’ll be left with a has-been bromeliad.

As the parent plant dies, the leaves turn brown. Simply peel them off as they loosen and become unsightly. Offsets grow against or close to the parent plant. Some kinds really proliferate, such as some of the aechmeas; others multiply less freely, such as Vriesia splendens (flaming sword), and produce only one or occasionally two new plants, which appear from the center cup of the old plant.

Suckers or offsets should be at least 4 inches tall before you detach them from the parent plant for individual potting. Gently remove fiber or soil so that you can see the entire root system clearly. The offset should have roots or show roots starting (indicated by slight bulges around the firm base of the plant). It there is space to cut, it’s safe to use pruning shears; if plant and plantlet practically touch, use a sharp knife when you sever them.

Center the new plant in a 4-inch pot. This size will hold the parent plant and its future offshoots for three years, unless you prefer only single-plant specimens.

The most porous potting media are osmunda and shredded tree fern bark, the same you’d use for orchids. But soil with a liberal admixture of perlite or coarse sand will make a satisfactory substitute.

Barely cover the base of the new plant. Fasten the plant to a stake so that it will stay upright until it has had time to develop a root system for its own support.

If you have a large collection of bromeliads including several varieties, you’ll be able to have some of the plants in bloom almost every month of the year.

Once the bromeliads are in bloom, the brilliantly colorful bracts, which most people think of as flowers are amazingly long-lasting. Some of them retain their attractive color for as long as six months, an undisputed record that no other flowering house plant can ever hope to equal!

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Many can be classed as succulents be cause they often store an emergency supply of water; not inside fleshy leaves as true succulents do, but in a natural, vase-shaped center formed by their durable foliage.

Natives of the tropical forests of Central and South America, bromeliads fall into two distinct groups: terrestrials, which grow in soil or between rocks; and epiphytes, which are (like some orchid varieties) tree dwellers. Many of the plants in the second group can exist for long periods of time without roots, as long as they receive moisture from reservoirs in their leaf bases.

Despite their exotic appearance and curious growth habits, bromeliads are considered to be exceptionally easy to grow.

When you buy one of these ornamental members of the pineapple family, you may think it needs repotting. Not so. Root systems are limited and need little space, so the pot is always small and seemingly out of proportion to the size of the plant. Actually, roots are short hold fasts, which permit these plants in their natural state to cling to tree branches.

Roots are accustomed to free air circulation, so give them good drainage. When you buy a plant, it may have been potted in osmunda or shredded tree fern bark. If you don’t have either material on hand when it’s time to repot offsets, you can use a soil mixture that’s from one-third to one-half per lite or coarse sand. Using a porous potting mixture provides the open drainage that is essential to the health of this family of plants _waterlogged soil would mean certain death to the roots. But happily there’s no guesswork in watering bromeliads Roots require little moisture _a soaking once a week will do. The main thing is to keep water in the center of the plant when you can see it at all times. When the water evaporates, replenish.

Resist the temptation that some amateur; succumb to of placing cut blooms from an other plant inside the water cup of a bromeliad at times when it is not in bloom. A stiff stem inserted there can easily pierce and damage the heart of the bromeliad, ruining a flower bud that is forming inside.

Feeding bromeliads is optional. Some bromeliad hobbyists report of plants in their collections that have grown for years, content with whatever nutriments that they receive from the water. But if you belong to the school of indoor gardeners that believes strongly in fertilizing, a small amount of liquid fish emulsion (diluted according to package directions and used half strength) in the central water cup of the plant should be of some benefit if applied every six to eight weeks during the summer months.

Freedom from insect troubles is a major asset of bromeliads as house plants. But if scale (hard-bodied brown specks on leaves) should attack one of your plants, remove it from the leaf with your fingernail or wash it off with soap and water. Chances are slim that your plant will ever encounter scale, but f it does, take immediate action; neglect will only aggravate the problem.

Leaf burning _the result of putting plants in full sun for extended periods, is almost he only other bromeliad problem. This rarely occurs, however, for none of the bromeliads needs full sun. In fact, the soft-, green-leaved types, such as some of the vriesias, must be grown in shade. Those with stiff foliage, such is many neoregelias, do need very bright light, but you needn’t line these plants up by i sunny window where you have to regulate light intensity during the day by shades or draperies. They will thrive as well six feet way from an outdoor light source. When in bloom, you can place them anywhere.

Like many other house plants, bromeliads benefit from being moved outdoors in summer, where natural humidity is high and air can circulate freely around them. But be sure to choose a spot where they will receive only filtered light, never full summer sun.

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Grow your first orchids indoors near an east or south window _they need brightest light possible, but no direct sunlight in the warmer months. Foliage will give you a clue to light needs: pale foliage indicates too much light; dark green, the opposite.

Humidity is a must. Provide it by setting the plants on pebbles in a tray of water. Keep the water level below the top of the pebbles, as the roots of most orchid varieties will rot if constantly moist. It is helpful to mist-spray plants regularly, though this should be done in the morning, for plants should dry off before dark. Or buy a small cool vapor humidifier for the room.

Circulation of air is another vital need of orchids, so growing them at a window in a main room of the house offers advantages in this respect. Avoid direct drafts, however.

With a modest collection of fewer than a dozen plants, it is possible to have some in bloom all year long, since different varieties bloom at different seasons. Orchids flower once on a pseudobulb, so next year’s bloom will be on new growths made this year.

Cypripedium flowers will stay fresh for six to eight weeks on the plants or three weeks in a corsage. It is one of the easiest orchids to grow under lights.

Cymbidium orchids put forth spikes with up to 30 lovely flowers each in late fall and winter. Almost every hue, including bronze and green, is found in the group.

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To help you do this accurately, an automatic timer, which you can set to turn lights on and off at the times you choose, is an item that is well worth the money. Most flowering plants need about 16 hours of artificial light, while foliage plants do well on 10 or 12 hours. If you grow a mixture of plants, set the timer for the number of hours needed by the flowering varieties, since a few extra hours will do no harm to the foliage plants.

Other Plant Needs
In addition to light and darkness, plants need more humidity than is available in an average home in winter months. For sizable light gardens, it is worthwhile to install a small fan to keep the air circulating (though not blowing directly onto plants) and one of the cool vapor-type humidifiers, which are capable of putting out from 2 to 10 gallons of water in a 24-hour period.

For small light gardens, humidity can be increased by lining waterproof plant trays with pebbles, sand, vermiculite, or peat moss and by keeping the material moist. Care must be taken that pots don’t stand in water. Excess water will cause root rot for some varieties. Heavy plastic hung over sides of shelves, ends open for circulation, is also effective in raising humidity, but is not attractive if your light garden is located in the lived-in areas of your home.

Still another way to increase humidity is by frequent misting, using water of room temperature. Handy syringe bottles for this purpose are on the market at low cost. Avoid misting after noon, for plants shouldn’t have wet foliage when lights go off.

When feeding plants-under-lights, you can use the same liquid fertilizer that you use for other house plants, diluted in the same proportion and applied at intervals suggested by the manufacturer. Or, since watering is less frequent due to higher humidity, you may wish to do as some experts recommend: feed plants at about one-fourth strength whenever you water them.

If your garden-under-light is an architectural or decorative feature, you can, by choosing foliage plants that tolerate low light, make use of ceiling-level lighting. You can choose from circle-line tubes, panel lighting, and fluorescent as well as incandescent lights mounted in fixtures that are designed to cast light onto plants without producing unpleasant glare in a room.

Excessive heat builds up if large numbers of incandescent bulbs are grouped together in a small area. Through an electrical supply company, you can order 130-volt bulbs, which will be somewhat cooler.

Although very few plants ‘thrive’ under conditions of low artificial light, there are a number of plants that remain attractive for long periods of time. You will do well to make use of the following lists for help in selecting these as well as plants that will flourish under normal light-garden wattage.

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Most house plants get too little light in winter months, not only because of the low light intensity characteristic of that period of the year, but also because of the shortness of daylight hours. To remedy this, the perfect winter situation for most house plants is in daylight by day, with a boost from artificial light during both daytime and part of the hours after dark.

There are many plants that can thrive for varying periods of time on nothing but artificial light, in amounts an average gardener can supply at moderate cost. African violets, begonias, and gloxinias are examples of the blooming varieties that perform well without ever catching a glimpse of the sun.

Where To Locate A Light Setup

Enthusiasts for gardening under artificial light have placed their setups all over the house _from living rooms to basements, even in closets! If you intend to grow large numbers of plants and to experiment with propagation from seeds and cuttings, the basement is best. It offers ample space and a lower temperature than the rooms in which you live-probably 55 to 65 degrees, which is better for most house plants. When the plants are in bloom, transfer them to the rooms you occupy.

You can start on as small a scale as you wish _one plant under a table lamp. If you use an incandescent bulb, it should be of at least 75-watt size and placed no more than four feet above the foliage, but no closer than two feet. Fluorescent tubes, because they burn cooler, can be placed as close as 6 to 8 inches from plants.

There are many possible variations that work well and are decorative, too. Try a light cart such as the one pictured in the upper left-hand corner of the facing page, or an attractive tabletop unit like the one below it. If a handyman is willing to design and build them to fit a special space in your home, you can have handsome wall units like those pictured on the following pages.

You may use either incandescent or fluorescent lights for this kind of gardening, but experiments have shown that a combination of fluorescent and incandescent light is better than either used alone. Generally, it is beneficial to supplement with some incandescent light, particularly when a ‘daylight’ fluorescent tube is used.

Research studies indicate that a plant will live and stay attractive for at least a year if it is lighted for 16 hours daily with the minimum light intensity it needs. If you intend to grow plants in large quantities, you may want to obtain a light meter to test footcandles available in your light setup, checking on amounts obtainable at differing numbers of inches below light. (For most of the flowering plants, from 8 to 10 inches below light tubes is best.)

Most beginners find that using two 48-inch, 40-watt tubes of the type specifically made for growing plants (including both blue and red rays) offer flexibility _good growing conditions for a variety of plants.

If you use a light meter to check on available footcandles, you will notice that the light is strongest at the center, and weakest at the ends of tubes. You can take advantage of this by placing those plants needing the most light in a central position, flanking them at ends with plants requiring less.

If you decide to build your light setup _whether large or small, you should begin by knowing the standard sizes in which tube lamps are made: 15-inch (14-watt); 18-inch (15-watt); 24-inch (20-watt); 33-inch (25- watt); 36-inch (30-watt); 48-inch (40-watt); and 96-inch (72-watt). Fixtures for each size, including the sockets for the tubes, are slightly longer than the tube length.

If you use two 48-inch tubes of 40-watts each, side by side and spaced 6 inches apart, you will have a growing area of about 4 square feet (48 x 12 inches), and can obtain from 15 to 20 watts of light per square foot for plants grown below them _the standard amount plants must have for healthy growth. It is always advisable to mount the tubes side by side rather than end to end in order to get maximum growing area in relation to lamp wattage. But unless you can get to a light setup from both sides, more than two side by side are impractical since you would have difficulty reaching across front plants to get at those in the rear.

Lamps should be installed so that they are not more than 15 inches above the tops of plants; 8 inches is considered ideal. You may choose from daylight or natural fluorescents as well as from among several varieties of tube lights designed for indoor gardens. Some veteran light gardeners find using one fluorescent and one plant tube in each fixture gives better results than either type used alone. But this is something you should experiment with for yourself, since little has been definitively established on this subject, and results vary widely depending upon the varieties of plants that are grown under lights.

Although length of life for tube lights is somewhat variable, you should probably plan to replace yours after about a year of use if they have been operated on a 16-hour basis for that period. Often you’ll fee to see that the lamp has darkened, bate if you cannot, it’s probably not producing the original amount of wattage.

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